A Japanese climber lost his life while another got injured while attempting to ascend an unnamed peak in the Ghanche district in Pakistan.
The condition of the injured climber is stable and efforts are being made to airlift him to safety via Pakistan Army helicopters on Sunday.
The ill-fated climbers, identified as Tamura Shinji and Samba Takayasu from Japan, embarked on an Alpine-style expedition to conquer a previously unclimbed peak towering at 6,800 meters in the Kanday valley of Ghanche district, according to Ghanche Deputy Commissioner Umer Vaqar. Tragically, their endeavor took a dire turn as both mountaineers slipped from their climbing rope, plummeting from a height of 5,300 meters, leading to significant injuries.
Takayasu, despite sustaining minor injuries, managed to move his injured partner, Shinji, to shelter in a tent before descending to the base camp for help.
Semba Takayasu recounted that their descent was marred by a fractured rappelling point, causing them to tumble simultaneously while gripping a tandem rope measuring approximately 60 meters (197 feet) in length. According to Takayasu, Shinji bore the brunt of the impact, sustaining a significant injury that he believed resulted from a collision with a rock.
“I told Shinji not to move because, you know, he’s so damages (injured) but looks like he has had some confidence to coming down,” Takayasu said.
Rescue attempts
A specialized rescue team, comprising experienced high-altitude climbers from Hushy Valley, was swiftly dispatched to locate and assist the stranded climber. Regrettably, their search efforts spanning several days were fruitless, leaving authorities to presume that Shinji had fallen into a crevasse during his nighttime descent.
The expedition’s organizer has confirmed that Takayasu’s condition remains stable at the base camp, with preparations underway for his evacuation via Pakistan Army helicopters to Skardu on the impending Sunday. He has also personally communicated the tragic incident to the family of his deceased climbing companion.
About the Climbers
Shinji Tamura and Takayasu Semba were no strangers to daring climbs, often targeting alpine-style first ascents. In 2021, they made a notable attempt at the inaugural ascent of Bondit Peak in the Karakoram, though this achievement was later accomplished by a Hungarian team.
Tamura’s climbing legacy was extensive, marked by numerous successful expeditions and summits. A renowned mountain guide and photographer, Tamura, born on August 14, 1966, boasted an illustrious career that included scaling Everest on four occasions, Manaslu four times, and Cho Oyu three times. His climbing pursuits extended to various corners of the Himalayas and Karakoram, leaving his mark on peaks like Broad Peak, Ama Dablam, Tawoche, Lobuche, Bondit Peak, Laila Peak, and Thamserku. His achievements weren’t confined to these regions alone, as he also conquered Aconcagua, Denali, Mount Logan, and Vinson in Antarctica. The tragic end to Tamura’s journey has left the mountaineering community and his admirers mourning the loss of a seasoned and accomplished climber.