On the 70th anniversary of K2’s first ascent, a groundbreaking milestone has been achieved. Pakistani mountain climber Naila Kiani led a dedicated team of climbers to retrieve the body of a mountain porter who went missing on the notorious K2 last year.
The team of dedicated high-altitude porters (HAPs) successfully retrieved the body of Muhammad Hassan Shigri from K2’s Bottleneck, an icy narrow gully with steep sides covered in glacial ice, at an astounding altitude of 8,200 meters.
The team of Pakistani climbers dug out the body from the snow at the K2 Bottleneck on July 29, 2024, and reached the advance base camp on July 31.
This unprecedented rescue mission, the first of its kind from such a high altitude on K2, concluded on July 31st at approximately 6:30 pm. “The mission was made possible by the heroic efforts of high-altitude climbers, logistical support from Imran Ali, and the backing of DC Shigar Wali Ullah Fallahi,” according to a local mountaineering group.
Kiani decided to lead the mission to retrieve the body and help them find closure. “Hassan’s family approached me for help and we undertook this humanitarian mission by utilizing my existing cleanup team infrastructure on K2 basecamp to keep costs low, we quickly organized the team to take advantage of the weather window,” Kiani wrote in a social media post.
Key Team Members:
- Dilawar Sadpara (Climber)
- Akbar Hussein Sadpara (Climber)
- Zakir Hussein Sadpara (Climber)
- Mohammed Murad Sadpara (Climber)
- Ali Mohammed Sadpara (Climber)
- Naila Kiani (Project Lead)
- Imran Ali (Logistics Manager)
- Wali Ullah Fallahi (DC Shigar)
Muhammad Hassan Shigri, a 25-year-old Pakistani mountain porter, lost his life in July 2023. Reports suggested that he fell from a path in the narrow area when accompanying an international team. His death drew international attention, particularly because despite accompanying foreign climbers, Shigri, an inexperienced high-altitude porter, did not have proper gear and died.
Shigri’s death also led to a global debate after a video emerged that showed climbers stepping past his body to reach the top.
Muhammad Hassan Shigri’s tragic death highlighted the urgent need for better training, equipment, and ethical standards in mountaineering. This mission not only aims to provide a dignified burial for Hassan but also showcases the exceptional skills and dedication of Pakistani high-altitude workers, underscoring the need for improved mountaineering education and safety protocols.
The Pakistan Army Aviation’s invaluable support in helicopter evacuation from the advance base camp, conducted on a humanitarian basis without any charges, further ensured the mission’s success.
In his statement, Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, said the Alpine Club of Pakistan and its members extend heartfelt appreciation to Naila Kiani and her incredible team of mountaineers.
“Their bravery, dedication, and humanitarian spirit in the face of extreme challenges embody the true essence of mountaineering. This historic rescue mission on the 70th anniversary of K2’s first ascent not only honors the memory of Muhammad Hassan Shigri but also sets a new standard for ethical and responsible climbing. We are immensely proud of their achievements and commitment to improving mountaineering standards in Pakistan,” he said.
This mission marks a pivotal moment in Pakistani mountaineering history, demonstrating the potential for local climbers to lead and execute high-altitude operations with exceptional skill and integrity.